Why Native Grapes Are Shaping the Future of Wine

A few years ago, in the build up to Christmas, I bought myself an advent calendar of indigenous grape varieties from across Spain. Indigenous grape varieties, also known as native grape varieties, are grapes that have evolved naturally in a specific region over centuries.

It remains one of the most thoughtful gifts I’ve ever received, even if I was the one who bought it.

The project, created by Raíces Ibéricas, was designed to showcase native grapes selected by sommeliers, many of which are at risk of extinction. Each day opened up something completely new. Grapes I had never heard of before, Juan García from Salamanca (grown on some pre-phylloxera* vines), Beba from Extremadura (once gifted to the King of Siam), or Albarín from Asturias (not to be confused with Albariño).

At that point, Served By Regal was already forming, centred around authenticity and wines rooted in place. But this experience deepened something. It moved indigenous grapes from an interest into a core pillar.

What struck me most was that these grapes weren’t just different.

They felt necessary to the experience.

Environmental Impact

As I’m writing this, I’m sitting in a coffee shop in Barcelona watching the rain hit the windows. It instantly reminds me of London, a familiar kind of grey.

But here, that rain is normally a blessing when it arrives. 

Over the past few years, Spain has experienced extreme climate swings. Long periods of drought followed by sudden, intense rainfall. When I first arrived in Barcelona, the region was already deep into a multi year drought. Water restrictions were part of everyday life, from limits on irrigation for farmers to rules on how long you could shower, usually a 2 minute cap. At one point, drinking water was even imported from Portugal.

In this context, grape choice becomes critical.

Certain international varieties, like Pinot Noir, notoriously French, struggle in these conditions. While Pinot thrives under a bit of stress, it doesn’t cope well with prolonged heat and lack of water. To survive in regions like Catalonia, it often requires irrigation, which isn’t always sustainable or even allowed.

This is where indigenous grapes come into their own.

Take Sumoll, an ancient Catalan variety that nearly disappeared in the mid 20th century. Once overlooked for being too rustic or difficult, it is now being rediscovered, not out of nostalgia, but necessity. Sumoll is naturally drought-resistant, capable of thriving in hot, dry conditions with minimal intervention. In the glass, it offers high acidity, firm tannins, and a slightly wild character that feels both structured and alive.

Then there’s Xarel·lo, one of the most important white grapes in Catalonia. Deep rooted and resilient, it handles drought far better than many international varieties. It’s also incredibly versatile, capable of producing fresh, mineral-driven wines as well as more complex, textured styles.

At Served By Regal, Xarel·lo sits at the heart of our portfolio. You’ll find it expressed in multiple ways:

• A structured, lightly oaked and skin contact style in Barri White from Celler Nessu
• A more herbaceous, textured blend alongside Garnacha Blanca and Macabeo in Ma (Hand) from Finca Mas Perdut
• Xarel·lo in it’s full glory and taste of the terroir, as part of Endogen White from Finca Mas Perdut
• And in its rare form, Xarel·lo Vermell a pink-skinned mutation that produces beautifully nuanced wines

These grapes aren’t just surviving climate change, they are adapting to it.

And that makes them incredibly important for the future of wine.

 

Connection to Place and History

One of the most compelling things about indigenous grapes is how closely they are tied to place.

Not just geographically, but historically and culturally.

Take Xarel·lo again. When grown in calcareous, limestone rich soils, it develops a distinct mineral edge, a kind of chalky, saline character that reflects the land it comes from. But beyond soil, it also carries centuries of influence. Phoenicians, Romans, and monastic communities have all shaped the viticultural history of this region. Today, Xarel·lo continues to be used in both still wines and traditional method sparkling wines such as Cava, connecting past and present in a very real way.

Another example is Carignan, known locally as Cariñena or Samsó. This grape is deeply rooted in regions like Montsant and Priorat, where it is often grown on steep slopes of licorella, a slate-like soil that stores heat and forces vines to struggle. The result is low yields, but incredibly concentrated wines.

In our wines like Out of Orbit or Endogen Black, you can taste this landscape. There’s a density, a depth, but also a freshness that comes from altitude and old vines.

And whilst we focus on Spain, this is a story in many regions.

Across the world, indigenous grapes tell similar narratives:

• Assyrtiko in Santorini, shaped by volcanic soils and strong winds
• Saperavi in Georgia, one of the oldest wine cultures in the world
• Nerello Mascalese on Mount Etna, grown on the slopes of an active volcano

These grapes don’t just grow in a place, they belong to it.

 

Curiosity and Exploration

There’s also something more personal here, something about curiosity.

Today, grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are planted all over the world. Cabernet alone is grown in over 30 countries. While this global spread has helped make wine more accessible, it can also make it feel a bit too familiar, or even predictable.

Indigenous grapes offer something different… exploration.

They challenge your palate in a way that feels exciting rather than technical. You might not immediately recognise the flavours, but that’s part of the experience. There’s a sense of discovery of learning something new with each glass.

Some examples worth exploring:

• Parellada, delicate and lifted, with soft citrus and floral notes, as seen in wines like Hurra! and Pell
• Godello, a textured white with both weight and freshness, offering both structure and elegance
• Listán Negro from the Canary Islands, shaped by volcanic soils and Atlantic influence, often light, savoury and slightly smoky

These grapes don’t follow a template, and this is what makes them interesting

 

A Natural Fit with Gastronomy

There’s also a strong connection between indigenous grapes and food.

Quite simply, they tend to pair better with local cuisine.

This makes sense when you think about it. These grapes have evolved in the same environments as the food, shaped by the same climate, the same soil, the same cultural influences.

In Catalonia, for example:

• Xarel·lo pairs beautifully with seafood, grilled vegetables, and olive oil based dishes
• Sumoll works well with lighter meats, charcuterie, and dishes with acidity
• Garnacha complements richer, more Mediterranean flavours

From an importing perspective, this might seem counterintuitive - after all, we’re bringing wines from one place to another. But in reality, it opens up new possibilities.

Restaurants are increasingly looking for wines that enhance their menus, not just sit alongside them. Indigenous grapes offer a way to create more thoughtful, cohesive pairings, even outside their country of origin.

 

Why It Matters

At its core, the beauty of indigenous grapes comes down to two things, connection and purpose. They connect us to:

• a place
• a history
• a way of farming and living

And they give wine a clearer sense of purpose.

In a world where many wines are produced to meet global demand, indigenous grapes offer something more grounded. They exist not because they are easy to sell, but because they make sense where they are grown.

They are often more sustainable. More resilient. And, in many cases, more expressive.

Indigenous grapes aren’t just a niche interest.

They are an invitation.

To explore.
To understand.
To reconnect with what wine can be.

For me, that advent calendar was a starting point, a way into a world that felt more diverse, more meaningful, and more alive.

Today, it continues to shape everything we do at Served By Regal.

Because when you drink wines made from indigenous grapes, you’re not just tasting a variety.

You’re tasting a place in time, in history, and in motion.

 

*A note on Phylloxera
Phylloxera was a devastating vineyard disease in the late 19th century that attacked vine roots and destroyed the majority of vineyards across Europe. As a result, most modern vines are grafted onto American rootstock, which is resistant to the pest. Pre-phylloxera vines are rare and often highly prized, as they represent vineyards that survived this period untouched.